Hey everyone, if you’re working with special industrial cables—whether you’re a plant maintenance lead, electrical contractor, or even a new engineer trying to wrap your head around why your last cable install went sideways—you know these aren’t the basic ethernet cords you run to your office printer. These cables are built for heavy stuff: extreme heat in a steel mill, toxic fumes in a chemical plant, deep submersion in wastewater treatment, or rugged vibrations in a mining site. And here’s the tea: using the wrong installation tools doesn’t just lead to messy cable runs—it can void your cable warranty, cause unexpected downtime, or even put your team at risk. As someone who’s been in the special industrial cable game for years, I’ve seen it all (from a contractor using a butter knife to strip high-voltage armoured cable to a plant that skipped a core puller and messed up a $10k data cable). Today, I’m breaking down the exact tools you actually need for different special industrial cable types—no fluff, just real stuff that works. Special Industrial Cable
First, let’s get one thing straight: not all special industrial cables are the same. I categorize them in my head based on what they’re built to withstand, because that directly dictates what tools you can (and can’t) use. There’s armoured cable (AC), mineral-insulated copper-clad (MICC) cable, submersible cable, and high-temperature silicone rubber cable—four of the most common ones my team supplies, and each has its own unique set of installation headaches. Let’s go one by one, starting with armoured cable, which is probably the most requested from clients doing power runs in harsh industrial environments.
Armoured cable has that thick steel (or sometimes aluminium) jacket around the conductors for physical protection. Trying to strip that jacket with a regular cable stripper? Don’t do it. I’ve seen someone snap a stripper blade in half and have to cut the entire armoured length with a hacksaw, which left burrs that scraped the inner insulation and caused a short a month later. The tool you need here is a rotary armoured cable stripper. It’s not as scary as it sounds—you wrap it around the cable, twist it a few times, and it cuts through the armoured jacket cleanly without nicking the inner insulation. There are different sizes for different armoured cable diameters, so make sure you match it to the cable you’re working with (check the cable spec sheet, that’s non-negotiable). Also, for the inner insulation, a precision thermal stripper works way better than a manual one for small conductors—no more crumpled insulation or uneven cuts that make terminating a pain later.
Next up: MICC cable. This is the fire-resistant gold standard for places like server rooms, chemical plants, or even residential high-rises, since it can withstand 1000°C+ without melting. But stripping MICC is a whole beast. It has a magnesium oxide core, and if you damage that core during installation, the cable becomes useless. The go-to tool here is a dedicated MICC cable stripper, specifically designed to split the outer copper sheath and expose the ceramic-like core without cracking it. A lot of new installers try to use a hacksaw for MICC—big mistake. Even a tiny crack in the magnesium oxide can let moisture in, leading to corrosion and total cable failure. If you’re terminating MICC, you’ll also need a crimping tool with a die set made for the special terminals MICC uses—regular crimpers won’t give you the tight, sealable connection you need. I always tell clients to rent the stripper if they’re only doing a small job; buying one is a waste if you don’t use it often, but never skip it.
Now, submersible industrial cable—used for pumps, wastewater treatment, and deep-water mining. These cables are built to keep water out, so any mistake during installation can lead to leaks inside the cable, even if you handled it correctly. The key tool here is a cable gland crimping kit with a waterproof sealant (usually a heat-shrink sleeve or silicone gel, but the crimping tool that applies the seal is non-negotiable). Wait, also a cable sealer tool, sometimes called a potting tool, which applies a waterproof compound to the end of the cable after stripping to make sure no water gets in. I once had a client install submersible cable without a sealer tool; within two weeks, the pump shorted and cost them $50k in downtime and repairs. Don’t be that guy. Also, for running submersible cable through tight conduits (since you often have to snake it down wells), a cable puller with a lubricant made for industrial cable—regular pulling lube can break down in water. The puller should be rated for the cable’s weight, which is usually heavier than standard cables because they have extra insulation and armour.
High-temperature silicone rubber cable is another big one, used in furnaces, kilns, and other places where standard cable would melt. Silicone insulation is soft and stretchy, so using a regular stripper can squish the insulation and expose conductors you don’t want exposed. A silicone cable stripper has soft, rounded blades that cut through the silicone jacket without damaging the inner conductors. If you’re terminating high-temperature cable, you’ll also need a heat gun (obviously, since it’s high-temp stuff) and heat-shrink tubing rated for high temperatures—regular heat-shrink will shrink at too low a temp and not create a secure seal. Pro tip: never use a lighter to shrink the heat-shrink for these cables. The flame can leave carbon deposits on the silicone, which weakens the insulation over time. I see that mistake all the time, so save yourself the hassle and grab a heat gun rated for at least 200°C.
Wait, there are a few tools that work for almost every special industrial cable type—these are the “workhorses” I keep in my van at all times, no matter what job I’m on. First, a heavy-duty cable cutter, not the cheap one from your local hardware store. Special industrial cables are thicker, have armour, or heavy insulation, so a standard cutter will dull in five uses. Look for a cutter with replaceable blades, rated for at least 1000V, and able to handle the largest diameter cable you usually work with. Second, a cable tester. This isn’t just the basic continuity tester—get one that can test for voltage, insulation resistance, and even faults in armoured cables. A lot of installers skip this, but catching a fault right after installation is way cheaper than fixing it a month later, especially if that means shutting down a whole plant. Third, cable ties made of stainless steel, not nylon. Nylon breaks down in UV light, chemicals, and extreme temperatures—stainless steel ties will hold up for years, even in harsh environments. I’ve had clients tell me they thought stainless steel ties were overkill, until their nylon ties melted and their cable fell down in a chemical plant last summer.
Now, let’s talk about tools you don’t need—because I’ve wasted so much time and money on these. First, manual cable strippers for armoured or MICC cable. They just don’t have the precision or power to avoid damaging the cable. Second, regular crimpers for high-voltage or submersible cable. Third, generic heat-shrink tubing for high-temp or submersible use. Fourth, butter knives, hacksaws, or any household tools—yes, I’ve seen all of these, and they never end well. The last thing I’ll mention is training. Even if you have the right tools, if you don’t know how to use them, you’re going to mess up. Most industrial supply places (including us, when we sell cables) offer quick training sessions or guides on tool use—take advantage of that. It’s 30 minutes of your time that can save you thousands in downtime.
As a special industrial cable supplier, my goal isn’t just to sell you a cable that works in your environment—it’s to make sure you install it correctly, so it lasts as long as it’s supposed to, and keeps your team safe. I’ve heard so many horror stories from clients who used the wrong tools and ended up dealing with way bigger problems than they needed to. If you’re not sure which tools you need for your specific cable, or if you need help sizing up tools for your next job, hit me up for a chat. Whether you’re a small contractor needing a rental or a plant lead looking to build out your tool kit, I can point you in the right direction. Don’t risk your cable, your time, or your money on bad tools—let’s get this install right.
Reeling Cables References
- National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) Standard WC 1-2019: Standard for Industrial Control and Power Cables.
- International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) Standard 60227: Insulated Cables for Rated Voltages Up to and Including 450/750 V.
- Underwriters Laboratories (UL) Standard 1581: Reference Standard for Electrical Wires, Cables, and Flexible Cords.
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Standard 1910.305: Electrical Systems – Installation and Use.
- Special Cable Council (SCC) Installation Best Practices Guide for Harsh Environment Cables, 2022.
Huayu Cable Group Co., Ltd.
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